Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Liverpool

My recent acquisition of a book entitled "Art Galleries of the World" has stimulated me to go further afield in order to tick a few more off. Liverpool being not too long a trainride away offered three more ticks in the book (if they're not in the book, they're not getting visited) and therefore warranted a visit. Kieran lived there for 2 years and was therefore an appropriate guide. We embarked on a sunny Friday afternoon.

After a brief bombthreat-related delay at Euston, with which K was somewhat bemused,



we were on our way, next stop: European Capital of Culture 2008.


Checked in to our hotel, we headed out to town, joined by a fellow backpacker, from Perth of all places, called Michael. After a few warm-up rounds with the assorted hordes of revellers, most of whom appeared to be on stag or hen nights, we headed to the waterfront in search of a slightly more discerning crowd.


The redeveloped waterfront is very nice: maintaining some of the old world charm of Liverpool's mercantile and industrial heritage, without all the pollution and filth.


The legendary superclub Cream closed its weekly event at Liverpool's Nation nightclub in 2002 (for debatable reasons, mainly associated with the decline of weekly "superclub" nights in favour of special event, tours and festivals); the Cream brand is still massive and utilised by its owners to promote festivals, clubnights, albums etc worldwide. There is now a bar at Albert Dock called BabyCream that "continues the legacy", i.e. maintains steady profit stream... Good fun despite my corporate cynicism.

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Up bright'n'early, and it was a beautiful day.

Moseyed by the Mersey;

visited Tate Liverpool (another crass attempt to extend profitability by exploiting a recognised brand :) - see discussion of cream above) - good exhibitions of Henry Moore and Robert Raschenberg though, and inn-ter-rest-ing exhib of Bruce Nauman.


This impressive Art Deco construction is in fact a chimney vent for the tunnel under the Mersey.

Waterside icons: the Liver birds on top of the Royal Liver Building and a statue outside the Port of Liverpool building.


Met some cool locals whilst waiting an inordinate time for our publunch.

I pity the fool who doesn't want to come to Reflex nightclub on their hens or bucks night after drinking 44 Seven Sins-themed novelty shots at the nearest funpub.

Albert Dock very pleasantly refurbished.

Umm, what can i say? The guy in the wheelchair obviously did something to offend somebody - and was sent to sleep with the muddy-mudskippers.

Classy name for a dance event. Where do i get tickets?

Out on the town (at Babycream again, as i recall)


I doubt that they party this hard, even at Scouse Nation...

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Up at a civilised hour, courtesy of strange roomfellow at hostel who muttered continually to us and later himself (we could hear him through the bathroom door) "Breakfast til 9:30, and off to see the Town Hall and Concert Theatre

Walker Gallery - fab collection, especially of PreRaph and other victorian era painting.

Trained it out to Port Sunlight (one of the world's first "manufactured" towns, built by Lord Lever, who started a soap company (Sunlight Soap) which was the progenitor of Unilever, to house his employees). He built the Gallery as a memorial to his wife; his employees subsequently paid tribute to his enlightened industrial relations practices by erecting a memorial to him nearby.

The gallery was really good: big range of stuff, with highlights being topnotch Burn-Jones works.


This is the Superlambanana, a recent addition to the cityscape, courtesy of Japanese sculptor Taro Chiezo. There will no doubt be more public art installations as the city takes it crown as European Capital of Culture "Make Art Great in 08!"; it will be interesting to see how things develop over that time.

Sated, we headed back Sunday arvo; all the traipsing round art museums had finally put a smile on Kieran's face (that, or the fact that it was over...)

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