Scotland and the North

Mum had been on a highland tour; i went up and met her in Edinburgh, ready for a road trip and champing at the bit for haggis, long-haired cows, tweed, black-pudding, whippets and big, baked yorkies.

Went for a couple of runs round the city, both that evening and the following morning, which was a cool way to get a feel for the different areas.

Solid art morning: National Gallery of Scotland - highlights: Titian's "Diana and Callisto" and "Diana and Actaeon", Poussin's Seven Sacraments and

the flagship painting (voted 7th most popular painting in Britain last year) Sir Henry Raeburn's Reverend Walker Skating.

Quick visit to the adjoining Royal Scottish Academy - they were kind of between exhibitions so a bit thin on the ground - then off to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and the Dean Gallery - highlights at latter being Eduard Paolozzi sculptures and paintings and cool Miro and Ernst pieces,

and the sculpture garden outside:

Hit the road and made tracks for Glasgow, arriving in time to visit the recently-refurbished Kelvingrove museum. Built for the International Exposition in 1882, when Glasgow asserted itself as the second city of the British Empire, it exudes a nouveau riche Victorian grandeur eclipsing anything that the much older Edinburgh has to offer:

Went for a walk around the Kelvingrove River and the University of Glasgow,

then up the hill in Kelvingrove Park - yep good idea Mum.

Can't say if the view was worth it because my eyes were watering so heavily from the exertion of hauling my monstrous bulk all the way up.

Had some haggis for dinner, which was (slightly disappointingly) tasty and edible - but a good way to maintain, if not supplement, my aforementioned monstrous bulk.

Next morning, swung by the Glasgow School of Art designed by the city's favourite son, Charles Rennie Mackintosh:

then off to Glasgow Cathedral

and the St Mungo Museum of Religious Art. Saw, amongst other things, some Burne-Jones-designed and William Morris-produced stainglass windows:

Went into town and had a cup of tea at the famous Willow Tea Rooms (whose insides were designed by Mackintosh in what became known as the Glasgow style, a variant on Jugendstil/Art Nouveau).

Check out the chairs!

Visited the Lighthouse centre - kind of a design/architecture museum with a cool tower with excellent views over the city


Nipped into the Gallery of Modern Art - Art Galleries of the World was spot on the money with this one: visit for the building not the contents.

Went out to the Burrell Collection; significant parallels with the Getty: big collection of art, antiquities and artifacts endowed by a rich industrialist (Sir William Burrell) and housed in an iconic modern building (designed by Gasson, Meunier and Anderson of the School of Architecture at Cambridge, and named as Scotland's second greatest post-war building in a poll of architects by Prospect magazine in 2005 - thanks wikipedia).

Had some haggis for lunch!!

The building design and the way the collection is set out is fantastic

Hit the road south, crossed the border into Cumbria and roughly followed Hadrian's wall east. Had a look at a section of the Wall before light faded (it was almost 3pm after all)

The sheep grazed utterly oblivious of the historical import of the northside fence of their field.

Made it along to Durham after nightfall and grabbed some dinner, including a trendy fusiony black pudding entree and a knock-off priced Pinot Noir (oh its flavors, they're just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and... ancient on the planet.). You just can't go past all that at only £7 a bottle.

Went to Matins at the Cathedral - one of the more spectacular in England.

and had a jolly fine stroll along the river and through the town.

Next stop, the, one might say, more quintessentially northern (more so than Durham which is full of them thar bluddy soothen stoodent taaps), town of Barnard Castle for a hearty Sunday roast with almost-authentic (technically we were still in Co Durham not the Shire of York yet) Yorkshire pudding, then to the Bowes Museum

Here I'm transported back through the centuries with the simple application of a ruff.

One of the features of the Bowes Museum is the Silver Swan, a clockwork swan that, when wound, plays misic and moves its head around, snaking about then bobbing forward to nip a fish from the water. The whole performance occurs once every three weeks except in Lent, and lasts for about 21.6 seconds, so we were most fortunate to witness it.

Southward ho, to Ripon Cathedral, one of the oldest in England - the first church to St Wilfrid was built there in 607,

then on to Leeds. Our hotel was right in the centre of town and i have to admit the traffic system had us slightly foxed, but we made it there ok and headed in for dinner, which we enjoyed at a very authentic West Yorkshire style establishment, called Wagamama.

Strolled about the next morning,

then headed along to the Leeds City Art Gallery and the Henry Moore Institute

To be quite frank, my expectations were not exceeded by any means, due mainly to misalignment between the offerings and my tastes. The Victorian-era collection on display there is dwarfed by collections in Manchester and Liverpool, though there is more modern stuff, particularly sculpture.

Heading westward out of town, we stopped off at Kirkstall Abbey, a ruined Cistercian monastery dating back to the mid 12th century. While the ruins are pretty spectacular, the abbey must have been mindboggling when extant.

Wester still is the town of Saltaire, an industrial village on the outskirts of Bradford built by Sir Titus Salt back in the good old days of dark satanic mills when England actually produced and exported real stuff not just financial and management consultancy services.

It is designated as a UNESCO world heritage site due to its significance as the first purpose-built industrial town, and one of the main mills has been turned into The 1853 Gallery, featuring the works of Bradford-born David Hockney.

Further south of Leeds, we partook of the final activity of our Grand Northern Road Trip, a visit to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park.

A highlight is the selection of Henry Moore pieces set against a backdrop of the misty Dales.

Back on the M1 and zoomzoom back to Cam, thankfully avoiding sustaining any speeding tickets.
Jolly fine trip. Once again, Mum, I would like to take the opportunity to apologise for being the most obnoxious passenger-seat driver ever to grace the A650-M62 interchange.